Friday 3rd May 2024 – Ioannina, Greece

 

Today is Greek Orthodox Good Friday and we asked the campsite manager about celebrations in Ioannina. He told us that there were processions that would meet in the centre of Ioannina and gave us direction. That wasn’t going to happen until about 21:30, so we plenty of time to do other things. I went to a local well-stocked shop and bought some charcoal and firelighters and set about barbecuing some chicken.
After lunch we went into the city and a 20 minute walk took us to the site of the Ioannina castle. The remaining walls are impressive, as was the gate through which we entered. The castle area now has lots of housing and the odd ‘boutique’ hotel but there are remnants of the castle, especially in the north-east corner where the Byzantine and Silversmith Museums are located. Also within those grounds are a mosque and a church. As we walked into the grounds we heard the chanting of an Orthodox service that was being broadcast on speakers placed outside the church. This is very common in Greece where, on special occasions such as this, the congregation is too large to fit in the church. We made our way to the church but found that the chanting was a recording – there was no service going on but the church was open and we were able to go in. In the church was a flower-decorated bier with an icon of Christ. An elderly lady was adding more petals around the icon and making sure that they were properly arranged. A steady stream of people approached the bier, crossed themselves and kissed the icon. Meanwhile the bells of the church rang mournfully – just an occasional high or low note, sounded by an automated electric-powered hammer. Churches all over the city were ringing their bells in this way and the sound continued for the whole day.
We walked on, wandering the streets until we came to the Agios Athanasios church that would be our destination at midnight on Saturday. The church has some very good frescoes and beautiful wood carving. Agios Athanasios is one of the most important churches in the city and therefore it had an even more beautiful bier and many more people streaming in to pay homage.
We moved on to the square where the procession was going to terminate later this evening and found a café to have excellent coffee and ice cream. We needed to kill some time so we found another church, Saint George, further up the hill where the congregation were crowded outside and even on the other side of the road. Many people were holding brown candles to demonstrate mourning for Christ’s death.
We returned to the square outside the town hall to take up a good viewing position. The procession is called the ‘Epitaphios’ and biers from the major churches in the area are hoisted onto peoples’ shoulders and carried to the square. By 21:30 the crowds covered the roads, the candles twinkled and shortly afterwards the first of five biers arrived, processing through the crowds. They halted in front of the town hall where a brass band had been entertaining us with mournful music for the previous hour. It was quite a moving experience and the dense crowd around us were very respectful. The clergy arrived and when the sermon started we decided that it was time to walk back to the campsite.
Photos: There are lots of friendly geese on the campsite and this family came to visit us; One of the gates to Ioannina Castle; The bier in the castle church; The biers have all arrived at the town hall.

Thursday 2nd May 2024 – Ioannina, Greece

 

We were heading for Ioannina today and the easiest and quickest route would have been the motorway but we wanted to go on the old road that travelled through the mountains. On the way out of Igoumenitsa we stopped off at a supermarket for supplies and it was very handy as it was almost directly opposite the archaeology museum. There is no parking at the museum but we could leave the van in the supermarket car park whilst we visited.
The archaeology museum is very good and is well worth a visit. On display in uncluttered display cabinets were finds from local sites and there were excellent information boards in Greek and English.
As soon as we were out of the city, we encountered our first tortoise of the holiday ambling across the road. It almost certainly was going to be safe as we hardly saw another vehicle on the first part of the journey. When we first came to north western Greece, this was the main road from Igoumenitsa to eastern Greece, Turkey and other countries. It was a very busy road with many lorries and, given the nature of the terrain, it made for a slow journey. This time, the lack of traffic meant that we had plenty of time to enjoy the views and to stop wherever we wanted.
We arrived in Ioannina and made our way to Camping Limnopoula, situated right on the side of Lake Pamvotida. We have been here before and were very happy to return. The campsite facilities are fairly basic but the location is excellent – quiet, lovely views of the lake and mountains and with easy access to the city.
We took a short walk from the site and found what we were looking for – a café selling gyro. We ordered two pita gyro – sliced pork, onion, chips, tomato and tzatziki wrapped in a pitta bread. We asked for a bottle (500ml) of Retsina (wine) and were delighted to be asked if we want it neat or with coke. This combination is common in northern Greek and we first came across it in Thessaloniki many years ago. We enjoyed tasting that rather strange beverage again and the gyros were excellent. Total bill €14 (approx. £12.50)!
Photos: Free range cow, complete with bell, on the old road to Ioannina; View from the campsite as the clouds hang low over the mountains.

Wednesday 1st May 2024 - Igoumenitsa, Greece

 

Happy May Day. This is the day when, traditionally, the Greeks go out into the countryside for a picnic and to pick wild flowers. We didn’t see anyone doing that, although we have done in the past. We simply relaxed, read books, I wrote blog and Jane reviewed novels for the Yeovil Literary Prize.
Photos: View from the pitch.